I had a 15 year dream of hiking the Appalachian Trail (AT) and finally began to fullfill it. On April 3, 2012 my friend Dan dropped me off at the parking lot at the base of Springer Mountain (southern terminus of the AT) in north Georgia and I began.
I had spent months working out at a local gym with "Coach" (Ron Chambers) and purchasing lightweight gear for my hike (my pack weighed 37 lbs. to start- average through-hikers carry 45 lbs). My plan was to hike the trail in sections (one month a year covering 300 miles each time). The half- mile climb to the top and down from Springer mountain was uneventful and filled with sunshine. At the base one fellow was recording trail names (I took "Finn" as mine) and another was telling stories of bears attacking campers and a mountain lion sighted in the North Carolina mountains (no way!). An hour later down the trail I heard thunder and dark clouds and heavy rains engulfed me quickly. For the next 5-6 hours I walked alone in a downpour. A promise of things to come. The majority of my hike I walked alone maybe 85% of the time. Arriving 9 miles later at the first shelter I would stay at (Hawk Mountain), I found the shelter full and tents everywhere (45-50 hikers).
All through my hike those numbers would decrease as people would be injured, have improper equipment or just plain quit for personal reasons. I found one last flat space, set up my tent, boiled water for my dehydrated meal, ate, then fell into my tent to sleep uncomfortably for the first night on the trail. My second day on the trail was hot and steamy with intermittent rain. I climbed my first difficult mountain (Sassafras) and upon reaching the other side drank water from a military water truck and commiserated with other hikers who said "Thank God that mountain had a name". From then on if a mountain was difficult and had a name that was our response. When I reached my second night's shelter my big toes were black (I would lose them later) and my shoulder and back were sore. Everything was wet, but I was getting the hang of setting up my tent quickly and preparing my food. The next two days were wet, and filled with lightning, hail, and constant rain. I met Brian and Kelly during this time and they cheered me on and watched after me. When I got to Neels Gap on the fourth day, I took a zero-day at the Blood Mountain Cabins and debated whether to quit. I went up to Mountain Crossings (an outfitter store) and "Lumpy" took my pack apart, showed me how to pack it properly and adjust it as I go. With Lumpy's words of wisdom and heartfelt encouragement I headed out the next day and covered 12 miles (the most I had done).
Brian and Kelly did not take a zero day and I never caught up to them, but for the next 6 months I followed them on their blog ("Brian and Kelly hike the AT"). Spring was early this year but there were still cold nights (below freezing) to endure. My sleeping bag (rated for 20 degrees) kept me warm but it wasn't fun to get out of bed. Cell reception was off and on, but when I could I called or texted Jane to let her know where I was. Many of the shelters in Georgia were on mountainsides with exquisite views. Some nights that were clear I could look out my tent and see the full moon and lights of cities down in the vally below me.
We lost people daily and the number of hikers at the shelters became 10-15 instead of 40-50. On day 8 I met Sarah and Sam (later to become "Mountain Goat" and "Disco"). They would cross paths with me almost daily for the next 3-4 weeks. It was always nice to arrive at a shelter after being alone all day and see familiar faces. The first in-town restocking occurred in Hiawasee, GA, where I met up with Sam and Sarah and their friend "Friar". We went to a restaurant that was advertised to hikers as an all-you-can-eat extravaganza. We ate till we were sick. I stocked up at a local grocery store and hit the trail to cross the border of Georgia/North Carolina the next day. The next day I summited Standing Indian Mountain (one of my favorite day hikes) and ended up at the Carter Gap Shelter where Sam, Sarah, and Friar cheered when I got in. I was the oldest and slowest hiker on the trail so the younger ones kept an eye out for me. In North Carolina the trail flowed through vast fields of low blooming wildflowers. I took many pictures.
One day I fell on large wet boulders which freaked me out but did no damage to me or my pack (amazing). I hiked carefully for almost 16 miles the next day. It was mostly downhill until Albert Mountain with handholds and death defying views and no switchbacks (just straight up the hill). After much cursing I arrived on top to share lunch with Sam and Sarah and see incredible views.
Late in the afternoon at a shelter, trail magic from a ranger (brownies and bananas) helped me to continue to Winding Stair Gap and a shuttle in to Franklin, North Carolina. This marked the first 100 miles of my journey. At the Budget Motel in town I met Joanna, Michael Moore and Charlie. They were a young, just-graduated from college, partying group, but good hikers. I would see them often over the next couple of weeks. Ronnie Havens, the owner of two hiker motels in Franklin, shuttled us around town to restock and eat town food. He also informed, entertained (country songs with his guitar) and delivered us to stores around town for free. The next day I hiked 11 miles through a terrible storm with hail, lightning and rain. I met Jay and his crew ("Grateful" and Alex) on the Wayah Bald Tower. Jay entertained us with his solar powered I-Pad (weather reports and music).
The storm remained for 3 days and I and all my gear were soaked. I was stuck at the shelter for 2 nights; the second night was my first night in a shelter. We heard owls and coyotes that night and mice made a nest in my pack. Yuck! The next day I hiked almost 16 miles. It continued to rain as I met two hikers with dogs. First was "Gator" and his pit bull "Swamp Donkey". Then I met a southbound woman hiker in water shoes (not boots) with a husky. Both dogs were friendly (I found every dog I met on the trail to be friendly) and carried their own packs. At a gap I stopped to dry my clothes and pack and yogied (as in Yogi Bear begging in Jellystone park) for the first time 2 day hikers. They gave me much needed water, trail mix and an apple. I stayed near a shelter above the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center). The NOC had a big kayak festival scheduled for the next couple of days, so I decided to eat breakfast there, but continue on in hopes of having less hikers at future shelters. Days later I arrived at Stecoah Gap and found trail magic in the form of cold Cokes, Ding Dongs, oatmeal cookies and a printed-out 3-day weather report at a picnic table. Nobody there to thank. Right after the trail magic the trail ascended Jacob's Ladder, renowned for its endless uphill grind. The good comes with the bad. When I reached Fontana Dam I stayed at the Hiker Hotel, took a zero day, restocked and prepared for my ascent into the Smoky Mountains.
I began the ascent into the Smokies with warnings about serious bear encounters and hogs on steroids. From this point on to Hot Springs I skirted the border of North Carolina and Tennessee. No hiker I met saw either of the feared animals. I saw lots of birds and insects. I hiked the first day in the park in sunshine, then rain and finally snow! I saw several deer and Indigo Buntings were everywhere. I stayed in the Mollie Ridge shelter (required in the Smokies) with mice and bats and 15 other tired hikers. The following days I summited Rocky Top, Thunderhead and Clingmans Dome. The weather changed hourly (had to be flexible with clothing) and mostly kept me wet, tired and sunburned. One morning we woke up to a 70 mile-an-hour hailstorm that blew away equipment and tore holes in tents. (I was in the shelter with the mice). On the 4th day I arrived at Newfound Gap and yogied some tourists for water, trailmix and a ride into Gatlinburg. While in Gatlinburg I ate my fill of pancakes and pizza. I also got ear plugs to drown out the mice and hikers snoring in shelters. The next 3 days were beautiful blue skies with great views. The shelters were well constructed and the views from Charlies' Bunion were memorable.
I hiked to the blue-blazed Mt. Camerer fire tower for the best views in the northern end of the Smokies. On the long descent out of the Smokies I stopped at Davenport Gap shelter for lunch and found a bad spring with wiggly things in it and a cage around the shelter with notes about a maurading bear. Creepy! I left quickly, crossed under the interstate and climbed up to Standing Bear Hostel. It was well equipped, friendly and with lots of beer and pizza. This was my first stay at a hostel and from this point on I looked forward to them.
I left the next morning with a smile on my face after replenishing with good food and company (about 15 hikers spent the night and I knew most of them). The hike out of the hostel had tough ascents and descents and my back and knees became gnawing pests. I had long ago found out about sock liners and stopped wounding my toes and heels. At the shelter that night I found it unacceptable so I pitched my tent. A hiker brought a guitar which was passed around the campfire and the evening turned star-filled. I woke up the next morning not feeling well (bad water?). I hiked on to Roaring Fork Shelter and stopped for lunch (good water source and a privy). Jay had also stopped there and we got into a philosophical discussion (Big Bang vs. God).
I was beginning to feel better and Jay gave me an updated weather report off his I-pad. The rest of the day went better and I crossed the famous Max Patch Bald mountain alone. I ended 13 miles later at Walmut Mountain Shelter (pretty name but nasty shelter with water a long downhill climb away). I stayed in my tent near a father and his 3 sons who were section hiking (20 mile loop and an overnite camp). I was considered a through hiker and they had many questions about my experience. It rained all night with strong winds. I woke up to rain, an upset stomach and sore knees. Thank goodness this was the last day I had planned to hike this spring. The 13 mile hike was a loooo...ng downhill descent, with no views due to extensive tree coverage (nice shade though). My knees really hurt. I could see Hot Springs (my final destination) 3-4 miles away (pure torture). I came out of the woods at Hot Springs to a parking lot with a new hostel nearby. I toured the facility and saw some hikers I knew, but I didn't plan to stay. I walked into town and ate lunch at a local grill and sat and had another philosophical discussion with "Wiffle Chicken". He said he had been thinking about a discussion he had overheard me have 3 weeks before around a campfire and wanted to tell me his thoughts. I didn't know anyone was paying attention! My friend Donald was late in picking me up so I walked down to the local tavern with a deck out over a river and met with Jay and other hikers I knew drinking brewskies. Nice ending to a tough day and a wonderful adventure. I set out to hike to Hot Springs, North Carolina and see if I could cover 13.5 miles in a day which is the average a typical hiker covers who completes the trail successfully. I met both of these goals, but finished a little beat up and having lost 15 lbs.. I hiked 27 days and took 5 zero days. That was one more than I had planned. During the hike I saw deer, squirrels, and chipmunks, but no bears or hogs. For you birders I saw; phoebes, White-breasted Nuthatches, chicadees, titmice, buteo hawks, goldfinches, towhees, junkos, Black- throated Blue Warbler, Yellow Warbler, Pileated Woodpeckers, Black and White warblers, vultures, Ovenbirds, wild turkeys, Hairy Woodpeckers, Northern Parulas, Scarlet Tanagers and Chestnut-sided Warblers. At night I often heard different owls. It was a wonderful experience but I have got to get better boots and work out even more in the gymn in preparation for next year. Northward.........
Short Fall 2012 section Hike
I drove up to the trail in September, but before starting I had to turn around and go home due to Hurricane Isaac. We had some water in the bottom floor of our house, but no serious damage. I went back up in early October, intending on a week of hiking northward on the AT. I slipped and fell an hour into the hike and hurt my knee. Compensating for the pain, I developed a blister on my left heel and a pulled a muscle in my back, but onward I trudged. I slept alone and hiked in pain alone for 2 more days. On the 3rd night I met up with 2 southbounders my age at the shelter! They helped me dress my blister with duct tape (moleskin won't stay in place).
The next day I took another tumble backing down a rock wall with finger and toe holds. As I descended I found an open field, pitched my tent and went to sleep (5 pm).
At 4am the next morning something came running up to my tent. It became quiet and I went back to sleep. In the morning I found a Blue Tick (a bear-hunting dog with a radio collar) sleeping near my tent. She stayed with me through the morning as I descended slowly down the trail. It was if she was there to guide and comfort me for a while.
After a while she disappeared, and near noon I met two section-hiking women, one who was a physical therapist. She tended to my knee with sprays and ointments and it helped somewhat over the next 4 hours. As I descended I got cell-phone connections and talked to Uncle Johnny's Hostel; they agreed to meet me at the next road crossing (where I'll pick up hiking in the spring). They met me quickly and when I got to Erwin, Tennessee, I met Jay (who goes by J and is employed by the hostel). Jay and I hiked together in the spring, but when Jay got here he was offered a job and stayed. That starry night at the hostel's fire ring I met two southbounders who live in my hometown and work out at the same gym (but I didn't know them)! Small world. I learned that you take what the trail gives you, to be more careful, and that I need new boots with lots of toe room. Moving slowly northward........
May 2013 Section Hike (Tennessee to Virginia)
My friend Donald dropped me off at Uncle Johnny's Hostel in Erwin, Tennessee. I had made arrangements to stay for the night and be shuttled to Devil's Creek Gap (where I left off last year). I hooked up with Jay (who I hiked with last year) who continues to be employed at the hostel. I learned that the weather had been fierce and the Norovirus had spread through the hiker community like wildfire. I began my hike with great trepidation, forgot to do my stretches, and shortly began having left knee problems.
By the time I reached Sams Gap (8.5 miles) I thought my hike was over. I hitched a ride back to the hostel where I met "Momma Goose"(trail name of a physical therapist with the warrior Hikers) and she checked out my knee problem. She told me I had strained the Ilial band tendon connected to my knee. She said I needed to slack-pack (get shuttled to the trail, carry a light day pack and be met and shuttled back to the hostel at the end of the day) for 4 days. She also had me do stretches, take ibuprophen, and wear a knee brace. I hiked through sleet, rain, howling winds and the fear of getting the virus for the next 50 miles. I hiked with "Nice and Steady" (a couple my age from California) for several days, tented at night, and kept up with them till we got below Roan Mountain.
They were ex-marathoners who have completed the Pacific Crest Trail. They picked up their pace going over the Roan Highlands and I fell behind. I stayed in the barnlike Overmountain Shelter with a completely new crowd. As I descended down from the howling winds and torrential rains of Roan Highlands my knee began having problems again. At a major road crossing I walked .3 mile off the trail and stayed at the Mountain Harbor Hostel. The Hostel is renown for its gourmet breakfasts. I stayed for two of them. After a good rest I hiked 12 miles until I was tempted by a new hostel .3 mile downhill from the trail. The hostel was experiencing trail magic (free beer, hot dogs and hamburgers) provided by the owner and his hiking buddies. The next day I hiked through low swampy areas that went on forever! When I reached Dennis Cove Road I stayed at the Black Bear Resort and arranged to slack pack the next day.
By the owners' recommendation, I went southward over Pond Mountain and Laurel Falls where I reunited with "Atlas" and "Bear Cub", two hikers I hiked with last year. I would never have run in to them had I not reversed my direction that day. The next morning I was shuttled to the beginning of the hike around Lake Watauga.
I hiked 3 days around the lake, over the dam and along the ridgeline above the lake. During the lake section I hiked amongst members of the "Riff-Raff" group of young hikers. Nightly we were entertained by "Cat Lady" playing her ukelele around the campfire.
At Low Gap road crossing, "Miss Janet" was shuttling some of the hikers in our group into town and offered to take my pack ahead to Damascus for Trail Days. The celebration was a 3-day affair with workshops, parades, food, equipment vendors and a talent show. I made connections with many hikers I had met in 2012 on the AT, and participated in good workshops, and saw the latest in new light- weight equipment. I left on Sunday hoping to lose the crowd, but the plan failed and I hiked in a crowded downpour that sent me taking the first shelter opportunity to pack it in. That night the area surrounding the shelter was engulfed in a tent city (there wasn't enough room in the shelter). The next day I descended out of the rain to a road crossing. I met "Scaredy Cat" and "Big Galloot". We hiked a short while together until we saw a field of rare Lady Slippers and a beautiful primitive campsite area at the edge of a swift flowing spring-fed stream.
We spent the night and awoke to a murder of noisy crows, and deep blue cloudless skies. I packed up and left early to ascend towards Mt. Rogers (highest mountain in Virginia). Because of the high elevation and openness of the trail I became sunburned, and parched. I searched and huddled around every spring and creek along the way. I tented around the Mt. Rogers shelter near Grayson Highlands State Park and the wild ponies.
There was a scary lightning storm that night, but I woke to a beautiful, cool, breezy morning. WOW! The day went on to hold the most dramatic weather changes (blazing sun, lightening, heavy rain, and gusty winds) I've ever experienced. At the shelter that night in a driving rain a hiker named Prometheus stopped by, built us a beautiful long-lasting fire, then left with his group to continue hiking all night! I don't hike in the dark. The next day I hiked a long up-and-down 10-mile day until I hitched a ride into the town of Marion for a hot shower and a comfortable bed in my own hotel room! Yeah! That evening I joined 3 young Michigan hikers to drink beer, eat pizza and watch a hockey playoff game in their hotel room. I learned more than I'll ever use about the game. The next two days I saw two of them ("Frog" and "Grizz") often. My last night on the trail this spring I stayed at the Partnership Shelter behind the Mt. Rogers visitor center. It's one of the nicest I have stayed in. It's clean, has a shower, and a privy with an actual toilet seat!
There was a phone at the visitor center we could use to call and order pizza to be delivered to the front gate (.2 mile from the shelter). What a luxury. My final day on the trail I descended most of the 11.5 miles into farmers' fields with cow pastures to the southernmost intersection of Virginia I-81 and the AT. I stayed at an abandoned-looking hotel before my friend Donald again shuttled me out. My new boots (Salomons) worked well and the work I did in the gymn helped my pack-carrying capabilities. I must however stretch every morning and take care of my knees. Northward.......
